Athens has changed its food scene dramatically since the 2010s. The city that used to be a culinary afterthought has developed a serious restaurant culture, particularly in the neighbourhoods of Monastiraki, Psiri, Exarchia, and Kolonaki. Traditional taverna cooking — grilled meat, fried fish, slow-cooked stews — remains excellent and inexpensive if you look past the tourist-facing places on the main Plaka streets.
The classic Athens lunch is souvlaki or gyros from a counter shop: a few euros for a pitta stuffed with grilled pork or chicken, tomato, onion, and tzatziki. The cluster of shops on Mitropoleos Street near Monastiraki is the most famous; Bairaktaris on the square has been there since 1879. For a proper sit-down taverna meal, look for places away from the main tourist flows — the small lanes of Psiri and the side streets of Monastiraki reliably offer better food at lower prices than anywhere with a barker outside.
Athenians eat late: dinner before 9pm is unusual. Lunch (2–4pm) is a serious meal, and the daily menu at smaller tavernas is always worth asking about.