Cephalonia (or Kefalonia) is the largest of the Ionian Islands and one of the least overrun by mass tourism. A serious earthquake in 1953 destroyed most of its villages, but the island rebuilt itself — and what survived, like the port of Fiskardo in the north, shows how beautiful it once was. The landscape is dramatic: limestone mountains, cypress groves, olive trees, and a coastline that flips between rugged cliffs and long sandy beaches.
The island got a boost of international attention from the novel and film Captain Corelli's Mandolin, set during the Italian occupation in World War II. That history runs deep here — the massacre of the Acqui Division in 1943 is still talked about.
Getting around requires a vehicle. Motorbikes work well on the quieter roads, though bus routes through mountain passes can make them hairy. Car rental is widely available; going local keeps the money on the island. The local wine to seek out is Robola, a dry white made from a grape variety found almost nowhere else.
Argostoli, the capital, sits on a long bay and makes a practical base. Fiskardo, at the northern tip, is the island's most charming corner — a small Venetian-era port with intact stone buildings and a harbour full of yachts. Day trips to nearby Ithaca are easy to arrange from the north.
