Every Easter Saturday night in the village of Vrontados, on the northern edge of Chios town, two rival churches — Agios Markos and Panagia Erithiani — fire tens of thousands of homemade rockets at each other's bell towers. The aim, nominally, is to strike the opposing church's bell at midnight. The result is a firestorm of rockets arching through the sky above the village, with both churches conducting their Easter liturgy simultaneously while fireworks rain down around them.
The tradition is thought to date to the Ottoman period, when the island's inhabitants were forbidden from using cannons during Easter celebrations and substituted rockets instead. The scale of the event — some years more than 60,000 rockets are fired — has to be seen to be believed. Both churches subsequently claim victory regardless of the actual score.
The event takes place on the hillside above the harbour and is visible from much of Chios town. Attending in Vrontados itself requires ear protection, protective eyewear, and a tolerance for controlled chaos. The area around the churches is roped off for safety but the perimeter is considerable. Book accommodation on Chios months in advance if you plan to visit for Easter.