Crete has more good beaches than any other Greek island. The north coast is where most of the package resorts cluster — sandy, organised, and busy in summer. The south and west are wilder, with tougher access and fewer crowds.
Elafonisi, on the far southwest, is the postcard: pink-tinged sand, a shallow turquoise lagoon, and a small offshore islet you can wade across to. It gets very busy in July and August. Balos, on the northwest tip, is its rival — a sweep of white sand around a turquoise lagoon, reached by a rough drive plus a 20-minute walk down, or by boat from Kissamos.
Vai on the eastern end of the island is famous for the only wild date palm grove in Europe, with a long sandy beach behind it. Preveli, on the south coast near Plakias, sits at the mouth of a palm-lined gorge — the river meets the sea here and the swimming is excellent. Matala, also on the south coast, is the old hippie beach with sandstone cliffs riddled with Roman tombs that were used as squats in the 1960s.
For something quieter, head to Xerokampos in the southeast, Sougia and Loutro on the southwest (both car-free, reached by ferry), or the long empty beaches between Sitia and Vai. Wherever you go, the water is unusually clear; the south coast in particular faces the open Libyan Sea and has dramatic, dark blue water.