Nafplio's old town occupies the small flat triangle of land between the sea and the rock face of Akronafplia. The grid of streets is mostly neoclassical — built or rebuilt after the War of Independence — but with Venetian and Ottoman pieces showing through: the Vouleftiko mosque, the Trianon mosque, Venetian doorways, an Ottoman fountain or two.
Nothing is far. The compact centre, less than 800 metres across, is where the museums, the best tavernas, the gelato shops and the boutique hotels are concentrated. Walk it slowly; the appeal of the old town is cumulative, in the details — the cracked marble doorways, the bougainvillea, the cats. Cars are restricted in the old town centre, which keeps it pleasant for walking even in high season.