A long-established taverna on Vasilissis Olgas Street, away from the harbour and patronised by locals as much as visitors. The kitchen does the classics — moussaka, stuffed peppers, slow-cooked lamb — with a heavier hand than the modernised Athens versions, and the daily blackboard specials are usually the best things to order.
Tables spill out onto the narrow pedestrian street. Service is unrushed in the Greek sense, which is to say you may wait twenty minutes for bread and then forty for the bill. Drink the house wine from the barrel; it is fresher than anything in a bottle.