Ta Fanaria occupies a corner table-jungle on Staïkopoulou Street, the busy taverna lane that runs east from Syntagma Square. The location is touristy; the food is not — a long menu of mezedes, grilled meats, fish of the day and oven dishes done properly with local ingredients.
Order the bourekakia (small cheese parcels), the lamb fricassee with avgolemono if it is on, and a litre of the dark Nemea wine from the carafe. Sit outside under the bougainvillea; book on summer weekends.