A handful of cafés operate inside and just outside the Kastro walls, using the height of the hilltop neighbourhood to deliver views that the waterfront places below can't match. From the right table in the Kastro you see the rooftops of Bourgos dropping away below, the port with its ferries and small boats, the Portara on its peninsula, and the open sea beyond — the whole composition that makes Hora such a satisfying piece of urban geography. The views from the Archaeological Museum's immediate neighbourhood are especially good.
The Kastro café scene is slower and more local in character than the waterfront. The tourists who find their way up tend to be the ones who also visited the museum and the churches rather than the ones fresh off the ferry and looking for the nearest beer. The kafeneion tradition — Greek coffee, backgammon boards, long conversations — is more visible here than below. A morning coffee in the Kastro, before the day heats up and before the lanes fill, is one of the more pleasant ways to begin a Naxos day.
In the evenings, a small number of bar operations open inside the walls, drawing a mix of visitors and the younger locals who prefer the Kastro's atmospheric lanes to the louder waterfront strip. Music is kept low. The narrow streets mean that sound carries, which creates a natural limit on volume that everyone seems to respect. Drinks are standard Greek café fare: local spirits, beer, wine, and the inevitable cocktail list that comes with the tourist economy.
Finding specific cafés requires wandering — the Kastro's layout doesn't reward map-following. Pick a lane, walk uphill, and look for open doors and outside tables.