Every stabilimento on the Bellaria shore has its own bar, and by late afternoon they shift from coffee and cold drinks to aperitivo. The ritual is consistent: Aperol spritz in a large glass over ice, a small bowl of crisps or olives, and a plastic chair angled toward the water as the light goes orange. The Adriatic sunsets here are long and flat, the sun dropping behind the coast rather than the sea, which turns the sky a deep amber over the beach. It is not a dramatic coastline — no cliffs, no rocky promontories — but there is something satisfying about watching the day end from a low chair with a drink, surrounded by Italian families doing the same thing. By eight the aperitivo crowd has moved on to dinner and the beach is almost empty.