Near the small harbour where the fishing boats tie up, a cluster of no-frills trattorias serve the kind of meal that has kept fishermen fed for generations: simple, fresh, and without ceremony. The formula at the best of these is fixed — antipasto di mare (a platter of marinated anchovies, clams, and mixed seafood), pasta with a seafood sauce, then grilled or fried fish from that morning's catch. Prices are reasonable and the portions are sized for people who have spent the morning at sea. These places are busiest at lunch, when fishermen, beach workers, and in-the-know holidaymakers share tables under a corrugated awning. Book ahead in July and August or arrive when they open.