The Mercato Albinelli is one of the great covered markets of northern Italy. Built in 1931 in a Liberty (Art Nouveau) style, it operates every morning from Tuesday to Saturday, filling a large hall near the historic centre with stalls selling cured meats, aged cheeses, fresh pasta, vegetables, and the local balsamic vinegar. It is where Modena's cooks shop.
Come early — traders start wrapping up by midday. The range is extraordinary: from whole legs of Parma ham to tiny vessels of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, the proper aged balsamic that costs as much per bottle as a reasonable wine. A few stalls sell cooked food, and the market's central café is an excellent spot to eat a quick lunch on your feet. If you are going to buy balsamic vinegar to take home, buy it here, not in a supermarket.