Grado's cuisine is unapologetically of the sea, and the local fish stew boreto alla graisana — a long-simmered preparation of mixed fish (traditionally turbot, hake, sea bass, or whatever the boats brought in), olive oil, garlic, vinegar, lots of pepper, and almost no tomato — is the signature dish. It is served with white polenta. Almost every osteria in the old town offers it; the better ones list which fish they used that morning.
Beyond boreto, look for sardoni in savor (marinated sardines), schie con polenta (small lagoon shrimp), and the Friulian wines, especially Friulano (the local white) and Refosco (a robust red from the Karst hinterland). The traditional dessert is the dolce alla graisana, with raisins and pine nuts.
Trattoria de Toni — a long-standing family restaurant in the old town serving classic Gradese seafood and an excellent boreto.
Osteria Alla Borsa — Calle della Borsa. Tiny and old-fashioned, with a short blackboard menu and a strong reputation for the lagoon dishes.
Tavernetta all'Androna — Calle Porta Piccola. More ambitious modern cooking using local fish; intimate setting in a tucked-away corner of the centro storico.