The centro storico of Grado occupies the western tip of the island, a compact maze of narrow paved calli and small campielli that recalls a miniature, low-rise Venice. The houses are typically two or three storeys, painted in warm pastels, with stone door frames and washing strung between balconies in the summer.
The two basilicas anchor the old town, but the pleasure is the wandering — finding the small fish-restaurants tucked into back alleys, the picturesque little harbour (Porto Mandracchio) with its working fishing boats, and the seafront promenade where the locals walk in the evening. Everything is on foot; the old town is closed to most traffic.