A well-regarded seafood trattoria a couple of blocks inland from the port, doing the local Tyrrhenian classics — spaghetti alle vongole, fritto misto di pesce, grilled sea bass with potatoes — in an unfussy, family-run setting. The menu changes with the day's catch.
A full meal with wine runs around €40-50 per person. Reservations sensible at weekends. One of the better mid-range options if you are stuck in port overnight or have a long ferry wait.