One of the most reliable places to try the tiella — Gaeta's signature stuffed flatbread — is this small, no-frills bakery and restaurant in the old town. The octopus and tomato filling is the version to order: the dough is thick enough to hold the juices and the octopus is properly tender. They also do escarole with olives and pine nuts, and a version with salted cod that is worth trying if it's available.
The tiella is sold by the slice from the counter at lunchtime and makes a satisfying cheap meal. Tables fill fast; arrive before 1pm or be prepared to eat standing up.