Albisola and Albissola

Adjacent Ligurian coast towns known for centuries of ceramic workshops and a mosaic-tiled seafront promenade.

Albisola and Albissola Marina are two adjacent towns on the Ligurian coast between Savona and Genoa, so closely merged that they function as one place. The distinction is largely administrative: Albisola Superiore is the older hilltop settlement, while Albissola Marina runs along the seafront. Both are known primarily for ceramics — the towns have been producing distinctive Ligurian pottery since the 15th century, and today a mosaic-tiled promenade along the seafront celebrates that heritage with artworks embedded in the path.

The ceramics tradition is still alive in the workshops and galleries clustered along the old town streets. Artists including Lucio Fontana worked here in the 20th century, drawn by the craft tradition. The Museo della Ceramica Manlio Trucco in Albissola Marina documents the history of local production. You can visit working studios and buy directly from potters.

The beach is sandy and faces southwest, which means good afternoon sun and shelter from the tramontane. Getting there is straightforward: the Genoa-Ventimiglia railway stops at Albisola station, the A10 motorway exits nearby, and Genoa airport is about 20 km east. The towns are small enough to explore on foot, and the Ligurian coast has its characteristic atmosphere of easy outdoor eating, olive oil, pesto, and fresh seafood.

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Beaches in Albisola and Albissola

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Eating Out

The cuisine of the Ponente Ligure is green, fragrant, with simple ingredients cleverly mixed together. But it is also a very light cuisine, almost vegetarian with flavors very closely tied to olives. Some dishes, such as "cappon magro" are the best expression of the mixture of products deriving from the earth and the sea. The Ligurian cooking has taken its peculiarity from other influences such as those from the Middle East, Spain and North Africa, having passed long periods of contact and exchange. We find a wide use of vegetables and herbs used in preparation of fillings for pastry covered dishes, stuffed veal, soups, and the magnificent "pesto" (basil sauce). A wide use of "white" meats is customary: chicken, rabbit, or pasture meats such as goat, lamb, not to forget wild boar and snails. Pine nuts, walnuts, olives, and mushrooms appear often, as also fritters, bread foccacce, and pizzas are widely eaten. Blue fish prevails: sardines and anchovies and sea bass, salt cod, stockfish. In the pastas, ravioli are placed on top of the list followed by pansoti (pasta filled with herbs and greens), trofie, trenette, gnocchi.

The oven cooked flat cheese garnished "focaccia" bread of Recco is a marriage of ancient and simple flavours, the intense and fresh fragrance of soft "stracchino" cheese spread overa thin layer of bread.

Then the "trofie" which, in their elongate and somewhat knaggy shape, carry the patient marks of the housewives who have formed these little noodles, one by one, with an expert and skilful touch; a rite of former times, crowned by the encounter of pasta and pesto, the savoury sauce of Liguria. Gastronomy and good healt go arm in the paradise of Mediterranean diet and the extra virgin olive oil dignifies a light and digestible menu.

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Getting There

By train: "Ferrovie dello Stato"/ Genova-Ventimiglia railway (Albisola station).

By car: "A10" motorway (Genova-Ventimiglia): exit Albisola; S. S. 1 (Aurelia)

Airport: Genoa (GOA) (Cristoforo Colombo Sestri) (Web site: http://www.airport.genova.it) 6km (4 miles) west of the city (travel time – 20 minutes) has duty-free facilities. Buses are available to the city.

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Shopping

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