One of the better traditional restaurants in La Spezia's old centre, Osteria dei Mille does Ligurian classics well and without tourist-menu pricing. Trofie al pesto, testaroli (a flat pasta unique to the Lunigiana area, north of La Spezia), and secondi of fresh-grilled fish from the Gulf — anchovies are particularly good here, served a number of ways.
The wine list is short but sensible, with Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà (the local sweet white) available by the glass. Book ahead at weekends.
Address: Via dei Mille, La Spezia centre.