La Spezia is the main transport hub for the Cinque Terre, the string of five cliff-hugging villages that draw visitors from across the world. The city itself is a working port with a gritty, unpretentious character that most travellers overlook in their rush to catch the train north. That's their loss — the old centre around Via del Prione has good restaurants, a lively market, and a relaxed evening passeggiata.
The Naval Museum is exceptional — one of the best in Italy and the main reason to budget more than a transit stop here. The Castello di San Giorgio on the hill above town has good views and an archaeological museum with a portrait that locals insist is Julius Caesar. The Mercato Centrale on Piazza Cavour is the best place to eat cheaply and well: grab farinata or a cinque e cinque sandwich from a focacceria.
The Cinque Terre access couldn't be easier — trains from La Spezia Centrale run every 30 minutes to all five villages. Buy a Cinque Terre Card at the station if you plan to hike or take multiple trains. Ferries from Porto Mirabello also run to the villages and to Porto Venere at the southern tip of the gulf.
Tourist information: IAT La Spezia, Viale Mazzini 47, tel. +39 0187 770 900.