Farinata is the essential Ligurian street food: a thin pancake of chickpea flour, olive oil, water, and salt baked at very high heat in a wood-fired oven until the edges are crispy and the centre is just set — slightly custardy when fresh. In La Spezia, the local variant is called cinque e cinque (five and five) and is sold stuffed into white bread rolls as a sandwich.
Most focaccerie in the city centre sell farinata. Look for the wood-fired ovens visible through shopfront windows; the best version is eaten standing up within two minutes of coming out of the oven. The stalls near the market on Piazza Cavour have a consistent quality. It's a morning and midday snack — by mid-afternoon the ovens have cooled and the quality drops.