A traditional Lombard trattoria close to the old church, run with the kind of unhurried professionalism that suits a long weekday lunch. The menu follows the seasons and leans heavily on the regional canon: risotto alla milanese, cotoletta, and braised meats that benefit from slow cooking. The atmosphere is unpretentious and the portions are generous. It draws a mixed crowd of local residents and business visitors looking for something more honest than the hotel dining room.