Ancona is a fishing port, and the food reflects it. The local benchmark is brodetto marchigiano — an Adriatic fish stew made with a dozen or more species, finished with vinegar and saffron — which appears on almost every serious menu in town. Pair it with Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, the crisp white grown inland, or a glass of Rosso Conero with meatier dishes. Prices are honest by Italian standards; the port area and old town both have good options.