La Rocca — the great limestone headland that drops sheer into the sea on Cefalù's eastern side — is the physical fact that defines the town. The rock rises about 280 metres above sea level, and the climb to the top takes around 45 minutes on a stepped stone path that is steep but well-maintained. The views from the summit across the old town, the cathedral towers, the beach, and the sweep of the Tyrrhenian coast are extraordinary.
At the base of the path, before the serious climbing begins, you pass a structure of enormous stone blocks that archaeologists identify as a Sicilian megalithic temple, later adapted by Greek settlers. Higher up, the ruins of a medieval citadel include watchtowers and a cistern. Go early morning or in the late afternoon — the path offers no shade and becomes uncomfortably hot by midday in summer. The entry fee is modest; the views are worth several times more.