Cefalù Cathedral is one of the great Norman monuments of Sicily, begun by Roger II in 1131 as a votive offering after his ship survived a storm off the cape. The exterior, with its twin square towers flanking a projecting porch, is immediately recognisable from anywhere in town. The interior is luminous and cool, with a nave of ancient granite columns capped by Arab-Norman arches in alternating light and dark stone.
The glory of the cathedral is its apse mosaic. Christ Pantocrator fills the half-dome with a gravity that later Byzantine work rarely matches — the figure is monumental but not stiff, commanding but not cold. The inscription runs in both Greek and Latin, a reminder that Norman Sicily was a place where cultures met and occasionally coexisted. Below, the Virgin and Apostles complete the programme. This is one of the finest examples of Norman-Byzantine art anywhere, and it is genuinely affecting to stand before it.