Messina has a strong claim to being the swordfish capital of Italy. The strait produces exceptional pesce spada — the currents and cold upwellings make the fish leaner and more flavourful than elsewhere — and the local tradition of preparing it reflects that confidence in the raw material. Involtini di pesce spada, thin swordfish slices rolled around a stuffing of breadcrumbs, capers, raisins, and pine nuts, is the signature dish: a preparation that mixes Norman, Arab, and Greek influences in a single mouthful. You'll also find swordfish grilled simply, in pasta sauces, and as a main with a good local white wine.
The area around the port and the Via Garibaldi has the highest concentration of decent restaurants and trattorie. Stick to places with handwritten menus and daily fish specials over tourist menus with photographs. The markets sell fresh fish in the mornings — the Mercato di Sant'Elia on the northern waterfront is worth visiting even if you're not self-catering, just to see the catch. Beyond fish, Messina makes its own version of arancini and good ricotta-filled pastries. The Sicilian granita tradition is strong here — breakfast with a granita and a brioche is obligatory.