The social life of Portoferraio runs along the harbour and the small piazza behind it. The wide pedestrian quay — the Calata Mazzini — is lined with cafés that have set out tables from morning espresso through late-evening aperitivo. The view of the boats and the forts above is the obvious draw, and prices reflect it.
Inland by one block, Piazza della Repubblica has cheaper and more local options — the morning cappuccino and brioche crowd here is Portoferraio's own. A handful of small wine bars on the lanes leading up to Forte Falcone serve glasses of local Elba Procanico and Sangioveto, often with plates of local cheese and salumi. The sweet Aleatico and Moscato dessert wines are worth trying at the end of a meal.
For a cocktail with a view, head out to Spiaggia delle Ghiaie at sunset — the small beach bars open into the evening through the summer. In peak season a few open-air clubs run on the road towards Magazzini, but Portoferraio is fundamentally an early-to-bed town.