Ohrid's old town climbs the hillside above the lake in a cluster of whitewashed houses, narrow lanes, and tile-roofed Ottoman dwellings, threaded by stepped alleys too steep for cars. The pattern is medieval but most of the houses are 18th- and 19th-century, with the upper floors projecting over the lower in the regional bay-window style.
Walking is the only way to see the old town properly. Loop up from the main square through the lower lanes to Plaošnik and Samuel's Fortress, descend on the lake side past Kaneo, then back along the boardwalk. The whole thing takes two or three hours at a comfortable pace.