Skopje has a good food scene by Balkan standards, and the city's large student population keeps prices low. The Old Bazaar has the most character — grilled meat, kebabs, and Macedonian taverns serving slow-cooked lamb, ajvar (roasted pepper relish), and the local wine, which is underrated. The restaurants in and around Macedonia Square and the pedestrian zone south of the river cater more to tourists but are generally decent.
Macedonian cuisine is a regional Balkan hybrid: Ottoman-influenced, heavy on grilled meats and peppers, with strong dairy. Tavche gravche — white beans slow-cooked in earthenware — is the national dish and worth seeking out. The Macedonian red wines, particularly from the Tikves region, are good and very affordable. For quick eating, burek (filo pastry with cheese or meat) is sold from street bakeries throughout the bazaar.