Grünerløkka is Oslo's most characterful neighbourhood — a former working-class district along the Akerselva river that has become the city's main hub for independent cafes, vintage shopping, and street food. It has the density and energy that the city centre often lacks, and the Akerselva riverside path running through it connects Mathallen and the Vulkan arts district in the south to Nydalen in the north, past old mill buildings and contemporary art centres.
The main streets (Thorvald Meyers gate, Markveien) are lined with cafes that fill up on weekend afternoons with a mix of young professionals and families. The Blå music venue by the river is one of Oslo's best for live jazz and electronic music. On Sundays, the flea market at Birkelunden park attracts half of east Oslo. Come hungry — the neighbourhood has the best casual eating in the city.