Casa Santiago

The choco frito specialist. Locals will argue about which place does the city's signature dish best, but Casa Santiago — a no-frills tasca a few minutes from the market — sits at or near the top of every list. The cuttlefish is sliced thin, lightly battered, and fried in olive oil to a perfect crisp. It comes with rice, fries, and a green salad, and you order beer or vinho verde to wash it down.

Tables are tightly packed and turn over fast at lunch; arrive at noon or after 2 to avoid the worst of the queue. Cash preferred. Avenida Luísa Todi, 92.

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