O Baleeiro takes its name from the Azorean whale hunters — the baleeiros — who worked these waters from small open boats well into the 20th century, a tradition that ended when Portugal joined the IWC moratorium in 1984. The whaling history is present in the décor without being overdone, and the food is firmly in the present: fresh fish and seafood prepared cleanly, with good local ingredients and a kitchen that isn't trying to overcomplicate things.
The grilled tuna with local butter beans (feijão manteiga) is the dish to order when it's available — the local yellowfin tuna is exceptional, and the combination with the sweet, starchy beans and the kitchen's herb oil works very well. The waterfront location gives the room good light in the afternoon. Prices are a step up from the basic tascas but fair for the setting and the quality of the fish. Reservations are sensible for dinner in July and August when the island gets more visitors.