Stambolijski is housed in a beautifully maintained 19th-century Ottoman building near the city centre, which immediately sets it apart from the usual Serbian restaurant. The interior has wooden ceilings, low arched doorways, and a courtyard garden for summer dining.
The menu is Serbian with Ottoman influences: grilled meats done very well, but also slow-cooked dishes and some vegetarian options that are harder to find elsewhere in the city. The wine list draws on Serbian vineyards, including some producers from the hills south of Niš. Service is attentive without being intrusive, and the setting alone justifies a visit even if the food were merely competent — which it is considerably more than.
Reservations are advisable on weekend evenings.