A single pedestrianised lane in the old centre that turns into the city's main bar strip after dark. Cocktail bars, beer halls, live-music venues, and a couple of shisha places line both sides — the crowd is mostly students and twenty-somethings, but the spread of places is wide enough for most tastes.
Walk the length of the street, see what looks busy, and pick. The action runs from about ten in the evening until two or three in the morning.