A traditional kafana close to Liberty Square — long tables, paper tablecloths, walls covered in framed black-and-white photographs, and a kitchen turning out the full Serbian roll-call: ćevapi, pljeskavica, sarma, gibanica, fried calamari for some reason, and grilled meats by the kilo.
The portions are huge and the prices low. A live band plays old folk standards most weekend evenings, which can be either charming or loud depending on your mood.