The Sierra de Aracena is full of small villages connected by walking trails through cork oak and chestnut forests. Almonaster la Real has a remarkable 10th-century mosque perched on a hill above the village — one of the few surviving rural mosques in Spain — with a Victorian-era bullring next to it. Cortegana has a well-preserved medieval castle and is good birding country (black storks and imperial eagles nest in the area). Jabugo, the capital of jamón ibérico, is worth a visit to see the curing houses and sample the product at source.