Vejer's old walls and gates give the town its tight, defensive shape. Arches such as the Puerta de la Villa and Puerta de Sancho IV are not just pretty entries; they are reminders that the whitewashed lanes once sat inside a fortified enclosure.
Walk the circuit slowly and look for the changes in level. The town folds over the hillside, and the gates turn what could be a simple village stroll into a series of small reveals.