Mallorcan mountain village in the Serra de Tramuntana, linked to Chopin, George Sand, and the Real Cartuja.
Valldemossa is a small mountain village tucked into the Serra de Tramuntana, easily reached by bus from Palma or from Sóller. It looks down over the rugged north-west coast of Mallorca with views that stop you in your tracks.
The village is forever linked to Frédéric Chopin and George Sand, who spent the winter of 1838–39 in a converted cell at the Real Cartuja — the old Carthusian monastery at the heart of the village. The visit didn't do Chopin's tuberculosis any favours — and getting a piano delivered to a remote Mallorcan village in winter was its own ordeal — but the setting was extraordinary. Just beside the monastery is the Palau del Rei Sanxo, a medieval royal palace where Chopin recitals are performed on the hour, even if you happen to be the only person there.
Beyond the monastery circuit, the village centre rewards unhurried wandering — stone lanes, flower-draped courtyards, and a good pa amb oli bar or two. Valldemossa also serves as an excellent base for walking in the Serra de Tramuntana, with the GR-221 long-distance route passing through the village.
Guide
Eating Out
Valldemossa is small, but the cafes and restaurants along the main street do solid work. The local pastry is the coca de patata, a potato-enriched sweet bread dusted with sugar and aniseed — sold everywhere and genuinely good. Several bars serve pa amb oli, the Mallorcan staple of bread rubbed with tomato and olive oil, served with local cheese or cured meat. Lunch here is better than dinner in most places; after the afternoon coaches leave, many establishments close early.
Guide
Getting There
Valldemossa is 17 kilometres north of Palma. Bus line 210 runs from the Palma bus station several times daily and takes around 30 minutes. By car the drive on the MA-1110 follows a winding mountain road with vertiginous views — allow longer than the map suggests. Taxis from Palma run to around €30.
From Sóller, the mountain road to Valldemossa is more dramatic still, passing through the heart of the Serra de Tramuntana. Cycling the route is possible but demanding — the climb from the coast at Port de Sóller is considerable.
