The pintxo bars concentrated in the Casco Viejo's old streets are Bilbao's most democratic institution. Every evening from around 7pm, the bars along Calle del Perro, Calle Ledesma, Calle Jardines, and the streets radiating from Plaza Nueva lay out trays of small plates on the counter — little rounds of bread topped with tortilla, anchovies, salt cod, Iberian ham, crab, or whatever the chef has put together that day.
The custom is to eat standing at the bar, move on after a couple of pintxos, and repeat at the next place. Each pintxo costs about €2–3; a glass of txakoli (the local white wine, served in a big pour from height to add fizz) or a small beer (zurito) goes alongside. Budget €15–20 for a proper circuit. The quality at the best bars — La Viña del Ensanche, Berton, Café Bar Bilbao — is exceptional for the price.