Astorga eats well. The signature dish is the cocido maragato, an enormous traditional stew that you will see on every menu in town. It is served in reverse order — meats first, then the chickpeas and cabbage, then the broth — and is intended to be a single midday meal that lasts most of the afternoon. Most restaurants serve it only at lunch and only on certain days of the week; ask the day before if you want to be sure.
Beyond the cocido, look for cecina (cured beef from nearby León), botillo (a smoked pork sausage from El Bierzo), and trout from the cold rivers north of town. The two big restaurants known for cocido are Casa Maragata II and Las Termas, both within a short walk of the Plaza Mayor. For something lighter, the cafés around the plaza serve good tapas and the local hot chocolate is a deserved Astorga tradition.