☰Casa Vicens

Gaudi’s first major commission, completed in 1888 for tile manufacturer Manuel Vicens. The house explodes with colour — green and white ceramic tiles, Moorish arches, wrought-iron palm fronds on the fence. It feels like a different architect from the organic curves of his later work; here, Gaudi was still thinking in straight lines and Islamic geometry, but already refusing to be boring. The house opened as a museum in 2017 after years as a private residence. The ground floor and rooftop terrace are the highlights. It sits in Gracia, well away from the Sagrada Familia crowds, so you can often visit without much of a queue.