Long-standing terrace cafe on the Plaza de España, with green awnings and as good a view of the square as anywhere else around it. Coffee in the morning, beer and free tapas in the early evening, and a parade of locals all day. Service is unflustered: come, order, watch the storks circle the cathedral tower.
The tapas — generally a small plate of jamón, cheese, or fried fish — come automatically with each drink, which is the proper Extremaduran way. Two beers and you've effectively had lunch. Closing time follows the crowd, not a schedule.