O Salnés is travelled in two registers. The first is the wine country: a network of small villages and gentler hill country south of the Ría de Arousa, lined with the granite walls and pergola-trained Albariño vines that make the comarca's name. Driving the back roads between Cambados, Meaño, and Ribadumia turns up dozens of small bodegas, most of which will let you taste if you ring ahead.
The second is the coast and the ría itself. The water is studded with bateas — the floating wooden platforms that grow most of Spain's mussels and a good share of its oysters — and dotted with islands. The town of Cambados is the de facto capital, with the medieval Torres de Oeste at Catoira marking the comarca's northern boundary on the Ulla. For sea bathing, head out to A Lanzada or the resort island of A Toxa.