Galician octopus — pulpo á feira — is one of the great dishes of Spanish cuisine, and this small restaurant in the old town is among the most reliable places to eat it. The dish is simple: boiled octopus sliced onto a wooden board, dressed with olive oil, coarse salt, and smoked paprika, served with boiled potatoes and a glass of cold Albariño or local red.
The dining room is plain and noisy in the way of a proper Galician taberna. Prices are honest, portions are generous, and the turnover is fast. Go at lunch if you want a seat — midday is when locals eat, and the best tables fill early. A full meal with wine rarely costs more than twenty euros per person.