Pontevedra is the capital of the province of the same name in Galicia, and connoisseurs often rate it the most charming city in southern Galicia. It lacks a single mega-attraction like the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, but the old town is immensely pleasing — a maze of narrow granite streets opening onto hidden squares, each with its own character.
Few things beat eating hot chestnuts in the Plaza de la Herrería at dusk, with the baroque Capilla de la Peregrina and the surrounding fine stone buildings lit up around you. The old town is full of tiny pulperías (octopus bars), and if you have never tried Galician octopus, you would be hard pressed to find a better place to start.
Just outside the city, the old village of Combarro on the Ría de Pontevedra is worth a detour. Its lanes run right down into the water, lined with hórreos — traditional raised stone granaries, on legs to keep out rats and topped with crosses to keep out evil spirits. It is one of the most photogenic villages in Galicia.
The Museo de Pontevedra is one of the great provincial museums of Spain, spread across several historic buildings around the Praza da Leña. The Basílica de Santa María and the ruins of Santo Domingo round out the main sights. The more unusual finds include the Casa de las Caras, whose stone facade is covered in seventeen unidentified carved faces, and the Convent of Saint Francis, which houses a remarkable medieval tomb. Further afield, Isla de San Simón in the Ría de Vigo is a compelling excursion — a lush island with a dark history as a civil war detention camp.