Monforte de Lemos is the natural base for exploring the Ribeira Sacra. The town sits at the confluence of the Cabe and Sil rivers and has been a significant settlement since Roman times. On the hill above town stands the Torre del Homenaje, all that remains of a medieval castle belonging to the Counts of Lemos; below it is the monastery of San Vicente do Pino, converted to a parador and the most comfortable place to stay in the region.
The old town's arcaded streets and the College of Nuestra Señora de la Antigua (built 1593) are worth an hour on foot. The college holds a significant collection of Flemish paintings — Lemos was a powerful medieval dynasty with connections across Europe and the collection reflects that. The town is also the hub for buses and transport connections if you are exploring without a car.