A traditional German-style beer hall on Plaza Santa Ana that has been in the same family since 1904 and was Ernest Hemingway's favourite Madrid bar — his usual corner table is still pointed out. The marble-top tables, dark wood panelling, and white-jacketed waiters are exactly as he would have known them.
Drink cañas of cold beer and order the classic tapas: tortilla, croquetas, gambas al ajillo, jamón, and the house speciality of filete empanado (breaded veal cutlets). Service is brisk and old-school; you stand at the bar or sit at a table on the square. Cash and card. Closed Tuesdays. Open until late.