When to Go

Madrid sits at 650 metres on a high inland plateau, which gives it a continental climate of hot dry summers and cold sharp winters. July and August are punishing — daytime highs of 35°C or more, dry as desert, and the city visibly empties as madrileños decamp to the coast or the mountains. Many small bars and restaurants shut for the whole of August.

The best months are April-June and September-October, when the days are warm but not scorching, the skies clear, and the terrace season is in full swing. Winter (December-February) is cold and bright — nights below zero are common, occasional snow falls — but the museums are uncrowded and the city has a brisk, scarf-wrapped beauty.

For events worth timing a trip around: the San Isidro festival in mid-May fills every plaza with concerts and bullfights; the Veranos de la Villa summer arts programme runs July-August; the autumn theatre festival brings world-class drama through October-November; and Christmas markets and the New Year's Eve party in Puerta del Sol turn central Madrid into one big celebration.