The square in front of the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Consuelo is ringed by terrace bars that come alive from late afternoon. The setting is hard to beat: whitewashed walls, the famous blue domes overhead, and views over the bay when the evening light turns the sea orange and pink.
Drinks are a little pricier here than in the new town, but you're paying for the view. The bars are at their best after 7pm, once the daytime tourist traffic has thinned and locals have claimed their tables for the evening. Order a caña (small draught beer) or a glass of local Valencian wine and settle in.