A mid-range restaurant with an attitude — the menu is nose-to-tail, focused on offal, cured meats, and the less fashionable cuts that other restaurants leave out. The cooking is honest and direct, the portions generous, and the price lower than you'd expect for the quality. Head cheese, bone marrow, and house-made charcuterie feature alongside roasted vegetables and well-chosen natural wines.
The atmosphere is deliberately rough: wooden tables, an open kitchen, and the kind of noise that says the room is full and enjoying itself. It occupies an old fire station on Master Johansgatan. A good choice if you've had enough of the New Nordic tasting menu format and want to eat something recognisable with both hands.