Hartlepool is a half-day stop, not a destination — but the half day rewards the effort. The Historic Quay around the marina holds the National Museum of the Royal Navy and HMS Trincomalee, which together are genuinely first-rate. Add the headland walk past the Heugh Battery and St Hilda's church for a sense of the old fishing town, and a seaside afternoon at Seaton Carew if the weather's behaving.
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