Berwick-upon-Tweed is England's northernmost town, sitting on the north bank of the River Tweed right on the border with Scotland. It has changed hands between England and Scotland thirteen times in its history — more than any other town in Britain — and this perpetual frontier position has shaped its character and its remarkable defences.
The Elizabethan town walls, built in the 1550s and 1560s, are among the finest and most complete example of Italian-style artillery fortifications in Britain. You can walk the full circuit of the ramparts in under an hour, with views over the town and the estuary. Three bridges span the Tweed here, including Robert Stephenson's Royal Border Bridge carrying the East Coast Main Line.
The town centre is compact and pleasant, with a handsome Georgian barracks (now housing museums) and a good market. The coast near Berwick has stretches of fine beach, and the Border country inland rewards exploration.